What is linen?
Linen is a natural fibre, made from the stalk of a flax plant. It is regarded in Europe as the best quality fabric. Europeans have long favoured linen for their sheeting because of its amazing properties. It softens the more it is used and washed, is extremely durable and lasts decades when cared for correctly. It is not uncommon that European families will pass linen sheets on to the younger generation as an heirloom. Vintage linen is very desirable, it’s soft and the feeling is very hard to replicate by any mechanical process.

Benefits of linen
Linen is a very durable fibre and has many benefits over cotton.
-          Linen is 30% stronger than cotton
-          Has a high moisture absorbency
-          Hypo-allergenic
-          Highly breathable
-          Structurally sound fibre so products keep their shape
-          Environmentally friendly – less water and chemicals to cultivate

Linen bedding can improve sleep! A widely quoted study from the University of Milan found that you fall asleep faster, sleep deeper, and wake up in a better mood after sleeping on linen sheeting.

What is the difference between cotton and linen sheets?
Cotton and linen are two similar products, yet they are quite different in their look, feel and properties. Cotton can be quite soft and silky straight out its packaging, whereas linen tends to be stiffer.

When washed and cared for correctly cotton sheets will last around 3-5 years, before showing signs of wear. Linen fabric, however, is really only starting to shine after 3 years of usage. It becomes softer with every wash and doesn’t break down as fast which is due to the higher moisture absorbency rate of the linen fibres. It is also naturally hypoallergenic which means sweat is less likely to break down the linen fibres, as it would in cotton. Unlike cotton, linen when cared for correctly has the potential to last up to 2-3 decades before needing to be replaced. Hence the reason Europeans prefer to invest in high quality linen sheets.

Egyptian cotton is a much finer fibre, and is made from the bols of the cotton plant. The yarn is very fine and able to be woven into a higher thread count fabric. Linen, on the other hand, is a much thicker fibre, but much more robust and durable. The resulting fabric is generally lower in thread count than cotton, but its properties are far superior.

How is linen made?
Extracting the linen fibres from the flax plant is a time consuming process. To harvest the flax plants, they must be pulled from the ground rather than being cut in order to retain the full length of the fibre. After being harvested the plants are left in the field to soften to the point where bacteria and fungi become present. This allows the woody section to start decomposing and make it easier to separate the fibre. The fibre is collected from the plants and then rolled and stored in shelter for 2-3 months, where it continues to soften.

The fibres are then combed to remove excess impurities and shorter fibres. The long fibres (used for bed linen) are slightly twisted and then processed using a ‘wet spinning’ technique in order to achieve a smoother and softer yarn. Alternatively, the short fibres are collected and spun together using a ‘dry spinning’ technique. This results in a stronger and heavier yarn which is ideal for heavy duty uses such as upholstery or heavy apparel fabrics.

The linen yarns used for sheeting are carefully graded and sorted into different qualities ranging from the extremely fine (Como Linen) to a high standard of regular linen (Dublino and Citi Linen). Harbin weaving mills select only the finest linen yarns to produce their fabrics with. 

Where is the best linen from?
Northen France and Harbin are considered the best climates for growing the flax plant. The temperatures and cooler climates are ideal for the cultivation and controlled decomposition of the woody plant.

The processing (spinning of the yarn) is generally done close to the harvesting, but where the linen really comes to life is at the weaving mills. The best weaving mills are undeniably in Normandy and Harbin where knowledge passed down from generation to generation is skilfully used to create the best linen fabrics in the world.